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datejust crown and stem removal

Help! Iv'e just removed the crown and stem, and I must have opened the screw too much. Now I can't get the stem back; the screw just seems to turn and turn. Do I need to remove the date wheel and can somebody help. I only wanted to replace the hands!! It's a 1601
Answer:
You broke the detent screw base into the setting lever. That is why it is spining. Very common problem, I had a lot of repairers for my clients of that nature during the years. That is why they went to a push in type detent system on the 3035 and 3135 movements. The stresses are why to much on that component.
To fix this mess in very simple terms, you need to take the barrel bridge, barrel, and pull the broken detent screw out. Now on the other side of the movement you need to in very simple terms pull out the setting lever and work put the rest of the detent screw out of the setting mechanism hole. This can be a __itch sometimes, because the screw head gets stuck in the hole. Then you need penetrating oil to work it loses, then you can work it out with a 000 tweezers. Be careful not to let the setting spring fly when taking the setting lever out of the seat. All this is done with no stem in the movement.
If you do not work on movements on a regular bases and cannot get Rolex parts, you might want a watchmaker to take a look at it. I hope this helps. AK
Answer:
When pressing on the screw. He may have pushed the setting lever up a bit and it's not catching on the screw.
Happens
DON
Answer:
Let me know if the screw is still attached or broken off.
Then will can continue the possible repair
DON
Answer:
Thank you both for your help. I don't think the screw is broken. I was very gentle with it. I would like to have a go at repairing the problem. If I mess up it will be good experience. But I do need some sort of guidance, and it might help others who can't afford to take it to a watchmaker. Is the bridge assy held on by three darker screws? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Answer:
The detent screw can only be positioned at full turns. When you install the detent screw you first screw it in all the way to seat it. Then back it out a few to trial fit the stem. One notion also is that the screw really cannot back out of the setting lever once the setting lever screw is screwed down to hold it in place. This limits the travel of the detent screw from going to far up relative from the setting lever base.
Also you have on the other side of the movement, the barrel bridge stopping the head of the detent screw from rising to high. I personally have never seen the detent screw back out so far as to be unseated from the lever base. It just seems physically impossible. If the screw keeps on turning and not pulling the detent screw down to hold the stem, then the detent screw is broken at the base.
AK
Answer:
I work mainly with Omega models and the if the screw is not attached to the setting lever. it just drops out.
Still could be that he undid it too much and the lever lifted up off the screw thread and sitting as such an angle that it won't connect to screw down.
Guees he's going to have to take the dial off to check
DON
Answer:
The barrel bridge has three silver screws. This bridge holds the barrel down in place. The barrel houses the mainspring, with looks like a thick round disk ether silver or gold in color. One other note, you need to let down the mainspring energy before taking anything apart. Let the watch unwind till it stops working.
Also make sure the watchmaker or you oils all the jewels and arbor ends when he or you reassembles the movement. As long as you use the same parts, end play is not an issue.
AK
Answer:
in order to check the setting lever. It just may be out of position.
This will be the first step on checking.
These are just guesses. Pictures of the movement may help as I don't have one here to offer further advice
DON
Answer:
access the setting components. Yes, with the 1560 and 1570 Rolex calibers, the detent screw has a limited travel ability. With the barrel bridge and setting lever hold down screw acting like a detent travel limiter. Like I said before, their is a lot of stress on the detent screw. Every time one pulls the crown in hacking or time setting position. The shock transcends thought the detent screw. The newer spring type detent mechanism on the 3035 and 3135 is a lot more beefier and it took most of the component shock out of that region of the movement.
AK
Answer:
Hi Arthur,
I taught myself watchmaking after my old watchmaker scratched a newly refinish Vacheron dial and refused to admit it.
After that I practiced removing dials and hands and reinstalling them and then just gave him the movements to work on, after which I reinstalled everything else to avoid problems.
He also taught me a bit and I practiced on other movements. Taking them apart and putting back together etc., so I have no problems replacing minor parts, balances, gears and other simple things.
Cleaning. I just give to my new watchmaker as he charges $25.00 for a manual and $35.00 for an auto for cleaning. After that, he just gives me the movement and I time it and replace in the case.
Case polishing I do, replacing crowns, reaming hands if needed.
One of his friends commented that my tools are better than his.
I restore vintage Longines and Omega watches and occasionally other models if I come across them such as little Canadian Rolex Oyster models, IWC or whatever catches my fancy.
Regards
DON
Answer:
If you have put the stem back in or tried to put it back in and it won't go, the clutch wheel or "sliding pinion" has come out of place. If the detent screw that keeps the stem in just turns and turns and turns.... you have completely seperated the two pieces.
Remedy: Dial and hands must be rmoved, the date disk and the ring that normally holds it in place must be removed to gain access to the detent lever.
(At this point you will have a clear unobstructed view of the setting mechanism. Try ro re-insert the stem so the winding pinion does not dump out of the movement if turned over. Make sure the clutch lever or sliding pinion lever is in the "slot" of the sliding pinion wheel.)
Place the detent lever back on the end of the detent screw....holding it in place use your screw driver to start the screw back into the detent lever.
Reverse re-assemble date disk holding ring, replace date disk, replace dial, apply "new hands" .
Next time "Please" take to your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, or you could have gone in through the front of the case. 1601 right ? plastic crystal ? fluted bezel?
By merely taking off the fluted bezel it would have released the crystal from the front of the case.... giving you access to replacement of the hands.
mrwatchmaker@yahoo.com
Give me a call when you don't have the Time !
Answer:
Don, out of necessity comes out the watchmaker in us. It always starts with a blunder from a so called schooled watchmaker. Bad regulation, scratched dial, bad case finish etc. I think most for most of us that is how we got into watchmaking.
AK
Answer:
You will need to remove that part in order to be able to lift to broken screw head out of the detent screw seat. Without this step, their is no way of pulling the detent screw out.
Ak
Answer:
...that he just unscrewed it too far and didn't break the screw.. If he broke the screw there are several more steps to be taken including that barrel bridge and removal of the sweep seconds 4th wheel from atop the train bridge plate before the barrel bridge can be removed.
He could start with the dial side and keep his fingers crossed that he didnt snap the detent screw.
Too bad for such a simple task. ? I wonder if he was planning to pressure test his watch after this self service?
mrwatchmaker@yahoo.com
Give me a call when you don't have the Time !
Answer:
Thank you All. AK, I think you are right.I have removed the date ring and holder and the screw appears to be broken. I will have a go later today. Wish me luck.
Answer:
Ak, I have very good news to report. I have removed the lever, removed the broken screw (why do watches have to be so small); I have replaced the lever and the date ring and holder and dial. Now for the bridge side!!!!!!!!!
Answer:
Ak, I'm a bit lost with this barrel bridge business. There are screws everywhere. I wonder if you have a photo showing the 3 screws I need to undo??? Iv'e removed the rotor assy with the blue screws, I don't know if this was required, but maybe it will let me see clearly. Do you blokes have special eyes???