WATCH POP

Hey,
I've been lurking here for a few weeks, and well i was pretty inspired by a few posts, particularly Francois and Jocke's bracelet replacement/ dial replacement DIY guides which helped me get started.
I have inherited a 1675 Rolex GMT Master, it has a pepsi style dial. My other watches are a 6000 tag chronometer (bronze dial), and a quartz kirium with white dial. Definatley got to say, even at the rolex's vintage it's quality compares quite well to that of my tags, especially the automatic movement which seems to hold energy for much longer then the 6000.
Anyways now why i'm posting ; )..
I'm going to clean off the scratches on the crystal with poly watch, and i have a dremel tool i'll use to apply the dialux i ordered as well... but first things first i wanted to make sure i can work with the new bracelet...
I decided i wanted to updated the look a bit, and i ordered a replacement oyster bracelet with SEL, and a black bezel insert replacement. I also got the nato bond straps just for fun.
I'm still a newbie when it comes to working on watches, please keep in mind.
Anyhow, I took off the bracelet with a pair of wooden tooth pics, as per the guide on Oyster world... Once i had the bracelet off i removed the spring bars, i had to clean them off a bit they were disgusting (25 years of accumulated grime i suppose).
Now, upon attempting to insert into the new oyster bracelet sel links, they simple just wouldn't fit. The appear to be able to go in partially, though even when lubed up with some lithium grease i couldn't slide these guys in, i was worried about applying too much force with a pair of electricians pliars, so i really gave up and decided to leave this for another day...
Recently, i purchased a new set of spring bars off ebay, made particularlly for a GMT II (which i assume is same, but maybe a thinner diamater to fit?) This way i won't risk damaging stock spring bars.. Are there any subtleties between the original 1675 GMT master spring bars vs the new ones on a brand new GMT II?
If so, may someone please guide me with pictures?
and you'll be buying a new crystal. You need at least a 4" buffing wheel and the skill to polish a crystal.
The crystal polish cuts quick (I tried this with my dremel and almost cut right through it) and after that I just give the watch to the watchmaker to do.
Small and light scratches and scuffs can be pretty much removed with the polywatch paste, but if the cystal is bad. Just get it replaced.
DON Well, i certainly don't want to ruin the crystal!
Thanks for the advice don, so is your suggetion to just apply poly watch, and to avoid sanding?
I do have experience polishing/ sanding, though definatley not a watch, i've been detailin cars for a few years ; ) (a joke don't worry).
I got the poly watch, should i just give it a shot? The scratches aren't horrible, but there are a few longer semi deep ones i'd like to clean off.
Please advise, thanks buddy.
Marc Oh one thing,
if it was unclear, i was only going to machine polish the case, no the crystal itself.
I was going to do light sanding and apply the polywatch by hand. In light of that please comment. I will wait until you guys advise me of course.
My g/f must have dragged her Date model (vintage '72) across pavement judging by the gouges in the crystal. All this a few months after a Rolex service(!). Anyway, I gave it the Polywatch treatment. Perfect? No, she really did a number on it (what was she thinking?) but it is only noticeable if you're an anal watch nerd like me. It cleaned up pretty good. Ultimately, you'll need a new crystal, but try the polywatch first. You may be pleasantly surprised how good it turns out. I would agree with Don, no personal experience, but sounds like inviting trouble to me.
As for the bracelet, the thread prior deals with it. I don't know if you can make it fit. SEL bracelets weren't designed to fit your watch. Hopefully, somebody has found a way to retrofit it successfully and can help you.
"Too many watches, not enough time!" Rolex Datejust 1603 (1974), Rolex Submariner 5513 (1967), Rolex Explorer II 16570(2005), Rolex AirKing 14K 1002(1960) and my Dad's Omega Deville (late 60's). If the crystal is bad. Try some 600 - 900 grit emery sandpaper. With this grit. Will remove fine amounts and you can clean up with the polywatch.
problem with the dremel on the crystal is the pads are too small and they cut too quick. Same as in the car detailing. You use a large buffer to polish rather than a small one which could burn an area if you don't move it fast enough.
DON I don't want to be too smart, but I always use the Dremel and its tiny 1" polishing wheel to remove scratches from my acrylic crystals. Move it fairly quick and the glass won't burn or dent.
Results are not 100% perfect, but ok for me. Should you ruin the crystal, relax, these thingies cost a fraction of a new saphire glass.
With care, you can easily polish an acrylic crystal with a Dremel. Use the slowest speed and keep moving. I use yellow jeweler's rouge.